Pho time

So it's taken us till the last meal before departing Vietnam but we have had our first pho. And Eva scored a piece of chilli in her first mouthful.

Very tasty and very filling, indeed.

Tokyo deli

For a fix of Japanese cuisine, Eva and I nip around the corner to this little restaurant.

It is reassuring that despite the language barrier, pictures speak a thousand words. It was just a shame that they didn't have a photo of a cup of green tea. Eva ended up with a glass of chilled tea. Which I found refreshing as she chugged into my Sapporo.

No picture could capture our hunger and there was no time to snap the pancake or tempura prawns that were wolfed down.

The sushi came later and was therefore recorded for history.

HCMC Tour

Danh took us to visit the war museum, Post Office, Presidential Palace and Highland Coffee shop.

Heavy downpour at the palace was a relief.

There are many fine colonial buildings remaining;  probably the only good thing that the French did in this country.

Lemongrass

Whenever Eva and I visit Saigon we make a point of returning to Lemongrass, a perennial favourite.

The view from this government-run restaurant is to die for, as atested to by any non-paying customer.

Mine host, and Eva's as well, Bui, did steer us towards the seafood menu like a kamikaze driver. We avoided it and settled for our favourites; fresh rice paper roll, deep fried calamary (Vietnamese spelling) and for mains, of which we had two, pork ribs in five spice and prawn, eggplant and tofu in claypot.

Fine wines from the Rothschild estate (in Chile) complimented the meal. (I don't know what the pepsi was doing on the table.)

So that is what a million dong meal tastes like. Very similar to a fifty dollar meal back home.

Mekong River Cruise

Ventured forth with Eunice and Isobel, two sisters from Borneo,  to The Delta. After arriving there we visited a brick kiln!  Saw how bricks were made. Examined the kiln. From the inside. Tang, our intrepid guide, reckons that some couples get married in them.

We then boarded a small vessel to journey up river and into a canal where we experienced the ancient craft of preparing coconut candy. Yummy. Then we were off to see how two ladies can make 75 cents an hour by making grass mats.

An exciting trip back onto the river while a gale was blowing was a treat. Especially when they handed out the life jackets and requested that we put them on!

We made it to our destination: the La Jarrai. A converted freight carrier of some kind. We were given a demonstration on how to make spring rolls before I showed them how to do it properly.

We had a lovely meal. Chicken and banana flower salad. Caramelised pork in claypot with bok choy and rice.

Ganesh Restaurant

After walking along a seedy street we navigated our way across a busy road and made it safely to our destination.

Ganesh Indian Restaurant,  specialising in northern and southern cuisines from the sub-continent.

Eva was do pleased with herself that she celebrated with a beer. And a mineral water.

Mmmm...
Sizzling mix of tandoor delights, chicken jalfrezi, rice, poppadams, garlic naan and a couple of glasses of white from Chile.

$34.00

Serving Vietnam since 1999.

Grand Hotel Saigon

Eva's impressed. Glenn has done good.
She like the additional powder room at the entrance. She likes the TV in the lounge room. She like the TV in the bedroom. She likes the twin sinks in the bathroom.

Glenn is awarded the Hang the Expense badge and Working until 70 / Bar of Devotion cluster.

Poolside, Bar des Amis, Grand Hotel Saigon, HCMC

We wandered down to check out the pool and discovered Happy Hour was in full swing. I don't know if Eva is going to cope with a two for one coffee deal! Scored a poolside table in the courtyard of the old part of the hotel. All French colonial in design (funny about that) except for the two new wings.

We're up on the 17th floor in a suite with a glimpse of the river from the bedroom window. Interestingly enough, the window opens right out. Maybe after happy hour is over I'll lean out and get a photo.

The pool doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight, so the water will not be warm, as it was at Sunrise.

Fashion darling, absolutely fabulous

What was once a quiet visit to the tailors in the morning has become a full-on wall-to-wall fashion parade of boys and girls in the afternoon.

Prudence (and several security guards) prevented moi from capturing the action for you but let me tell you again; it is a sisterhood. Total strangers will tell one another how lovely they look. Which definitely makes the cost of the gear a bargain.

And if it wasn't for the sweatshop two doors down where the stuff gets made by the little elves, they'd have to traipse to Illusion Bleu and pay exorbitant prices for similar gear that originates from the seeatshops of Dacca.

Haute couture @Yaly

When in Hoi An, Eva and I always make a point of dropping in to see Nicola and Denise at Yaly.

On today's vist, Glenn is ordering several linen shirts in solid colours in readiness for Melbourne's scorching summer.

Eva has opted for copies of some of her items originally crafted for her by Illusion Bleu.  She has also been tempted by one of the creations on display.

With measurements taken and body images recorded, Glenn will now be able to buy those latest fashion items that women have always admired him for.

They have nearly got the ears and hair right.

Tour de Hoi An

Just a short jaunt in the countryside with Tony, our guide. We visited a farmer with his buffalo. Hitched a ride. Visited the local vege garden and watched a 70 year old lady demonstrate how to water the garden with two watering cans. A great advertisement for Tony's plan to keep us employed into our twilight years.
Embarked upon a voyage of discovery downstream and had nets cast for us while enjoying a refreshing ale.

After a visit to a fishing hut we git back ontonthe boat and had lunch. Returned home exhausted.

Master and Missy Chef #2 at Red Bridge Cooking School, Hoi An

Clean clothes have arrived and we have left for the cooking class at The Red Bridge. We go to the market with Son, our guide, who shows us how to determine the freshness of the produce by jabbing it with your finger. Try that the next time you're at the butchers!

We hop on the boat for a cruise down to the cooking class.

Our chef, I'll call him Thanh, was quite an amusing chap. He demonstrated what to do. We went to our station and did it. Then we'd come back and say how yummy it was.

Most of us were Aussies. One token Pommie lass. And a couple of kids.

All good fun.

Mango Mango, Hoi An

After being collected from our hotel, we bade farewell to Hue and took the road to Danang.

Over the Lucky Elephant Pass and then Ocean And Cloud Pass (no tunnels for these intrepid travellers) before descending upon Danang.

We visited the Cham Museum in Danang  and a marble factory before arriving at Hoi An.

We walked along the river to the restaurant.

Our menu kicked off with spring rolls and four seasons tortillas. We then shared the Fabulous fish called Phish done in ginger, onion and roasted black pepper and La Tropicana chicken that had been marinated in lemongrass garlic and a touch of curry.

We managed to squeeze in dessert: bananrama and Mango.mango. Both fruits were flambéd; with cinnamon, brown sugar with a drizzle of coconut sauce.  Mmmmmm.

Vietnamese massage with sleepy ending

So after my strenuous work out in the gym, I accompanied Eva to the massage parlour.

Into the baggy trunks and up on the table, ready for a relaxing rub down by the petite masseuse.

Imagine my surprise when she gets up on the table with me!  Fortunately, a photograhical record of this event was not captured.

A very relaxing experience indeed.  I nearly dosed off.

Eva was very inquisitive (like the Spanish) when we met up back in the lounge with a refreshing ginger tea.  "Yes dear.  She got onto the table with me, just like yours did. No dear. I behaved myself."

Getting nowhere fast

After a couple of relaxing days spent visiting temples and cooking different ingredients in oil before eating them, I was hankering to get into that fitness centre and get some exercise. Undaunted by the lack of cycle equipment, I went strolling on the walker (set on incline!) for a good 3 km.

Masterchef cooking class

After assisting Thu with the purchases at the market we adjourned to yThao Garden to have our cooking lesson.

After donning our aprons we were described the succulent dishes that we were going to prepare.

Spring roll, Hue pancake (with prawn and pork), banana flower salad and grilled beef.

Eva was challenged in wrapping the mixed pork in the rice paper and I found the pancake making hard going. More heat, please.

We had a great time but are now too exhausted to tour the citadel but Phoung is here and we have to go.

Hue Cuisine

Whever in Hue, Eva and I always visit Biet Phu Thao Nhi Restaurant,  just down the road from the last emperor's tomb.

Eva kicks off with shrimp and rice noodle soup while I have the rice noodle soup with beef.  We enjoy a Festiva beer.
Second course is their signature dish: shrimp in passion sauce with french fries accompanied by mini spring rolls.

We celebrate the steamed mackeral in banana leaf with a second beer. Tbk it is to assist in the digestion of the fish. A new idea hits me: fish jerky. I dont know where it comes from.

Some may think that the third beer glass was for absent friends. Tbk it was to rinse the sludge out of the bottom of the glasses that we were drinking from.

Saigon Morin Hotel, Hue

Built at the start of the previous century, this place reminded Eva of Raffles. We had a quick meal on the courtyard before retiring to our suite "with river view".

They should have also mentioned the "horn happy commuters with suicidal tendencies" who are now making their chaotic way to work. Even I would not drive on these roads.

An unexpected meeting

After ordering a pre-flight coffee and seeking a quiet place to sit, we find the best quietest corner already taken; by Mary Donaldson and Jim Hayes! Off to Vietnam on our flight.  Staying at Hoi An when we'll be there. Chance or coincidence? Blooming scary.

After an uneventful flight we got here (HCMC) and then spent several anxious minutes trying to locate Eva's luggage.

Whilst sitting in the departure lounge at HCMC I observed how it also serves as an Asian grocery. How convenient.

Atmospheric Asia

Statues of Buddha, smoking incense and the melodic tones of foreign tongues...
And that was just in the taxi to Tullamarine Airport.

We apprehensively welcomed the wave of sub-continental mysticism that washed over us. And gagged all the way from the time the door closed until we arrived at the terminal curb.

Fortunately, we weren't going to India.

Vietnam was our destination. And then more.  We were going up river. Way up river. About three kilometres up river to the next village where the locals were going to show us traditional skills and offer us original artefacts (read: ripping off the tourists.)

(Tbk: Anne is awarded a safe driver award and a good neighbour badge, with cluster, for getting us safely to the airport.)